Milan’s Fashion Week Premiere: Fendi, Marni, and Etro Steal the Spotlight

Italy is renowned for its rich production history and dynamic fashion scene, with the industry contributing 5% to the country's GDP. Giuseppe Sala, the Mayor of Milan, alongside Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, highlighted the region's commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability in a press conference ahead of Milan Fashion Week. It was clear from the outset that the event would be a celebration of both Italian heritage and forward-thinking creativity, with both international and homegrown brands eager to showcase their artisanal expertise and rich legacies.

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Fendi SS25

The week began with Fendi's celebratory collection, marking the brand's centenary next year. For SS25, creative director Kim Jones drew inspiration from the 1920s, a decade he believes laid the foundation for modern dressing and thinking. “It’s about modernity in style and attitude,” Jones explained. The collection blended Fendi’s couture heritage with ready-to-wear elements, featuring luxurious silk and organza adorned with intricate embellishments. Art Deco flapper dresses were paired with Red Wing boots, while croc-effect leather dresses and knitted hot pants were worn under relaxed overcoats, creating a fusion of the old and the new.

Giovanni Giannoni

Marni SS25

At Marni, Francesco Risso also sought to highlight craftsmanship and the essence of design. “Beauty is a white rabbit scampering across your yard. You chase it. Though you fall short in capturing it, in the mad rush you find yourself somewhere wondrous,” read the show notes. This whimsical sentiment set the tone for the surrealist collection that followed. The runway became a dreamlike landscape where Risso's use of cotton, leather, and suede gave rise to full-skirted dresses, exaggerated tailoring, and oversized accessories. Bright rose motifs, large-brimmed hats, and scarves made from fabric scraps added to the eccentric charm of this imaginative wonderland.

Courtesy of Boss

Boss SS25

On Wednesday, Boss presented a relaxed take on its tailoring roots with a collection titled “Out of Office,” showcasing suiting designed for everyday wear. The lighter fabrics and looser silhouettes reflected a more laid-back approach compared to previous seasons, as blazers were styled over hoodies and unbuttoned shirts. Marco Falcioni, senior vice president of creative direction, described the collection as a “softer approach,” offering greater freedom and expression of individuality, allowing the wearer's body to define the silhouette.

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Etro SS25

The day's shows concluded with Etro, where bohemian vibrancy met Mediterranean energy. The collection featured fishnet tops paired with paisley silk skirts, beaded denim layered over flowing chiffon, and dresses embellished with intricate sequins and sensual sheer detailing—each piece a tribute to Italy's rich tradition of craftsmanship.

While craftsmanship is undeniably serious business, in the world of fashion, it often results in a playful and joyful celebration of creativity.