Time and Trends: Max Mara, Prada, Moschino, and Emporio Armani Push Boundaries at Milan Fashion Week

Fashion is an ever-evolving cycle: trends rise, fall, and eventually resurface, adapting with every iteration. This cyclical nature is at the forefront of designers' minds, with Milan’s upcoming collections blending the past with the present.

paolo lanzi

Max Mara SS25

Max Mara set the tone for day 3 of Milan Fashion Week with a collection inspired by Hypatia of Alexandria, the 4th-century mathematician and philosopher, whose work built upon Pythagorean theories. British designer Ian Griffiths took a “trigonometrical twist” with the collection, focusing on precision and structured silhouettes, with narrow, square shoulders in tailored pieces. While the inspiration was rooted in antiquity, the final result was anything but dated—Max Mara presented a contemporary wardrobe of ultra-luxurious staples. Cotton poplin shirts, sleek knit pullovers, sharp suits, soft ribbed dresses, and the brand’s signature luxurious coats made for a modern, timeless collection. Who knew mathematics could look so elegant?

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Prada SS25

Later in the day, Prada presented a vision rooted in numbers as well, drawing from the current algorithm-driven era. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection of contradictions, blending technological function with unpredictable human agency. The result was a fusion of futuristic elements and nostalgic references, featuring ’60s silhouettes, space-age influences, and contemporary trends. Prada’s iconic archive pieces also made a return to the catwalk, like the platform-espadrille brogues from SS11 and the rubber-cap Mary Jane platforms from AW12, proving that the brand continues to evolve while paying homage to its history.

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Moschino, under the direction of Adrian Appiolaza, balanced nostalgia with a playful, fresh approach. His second womenswear collection for the brand, titled “Piece of Sheet,” took inspiration from a photo of Franco Moschino draping fabric on a mannequin. Appiolaza transformed the image into a whimsical laundry theme, with white sheets flowing above the runway and models wearing “bed sheet gowns” while holding household items. The collection also paid homage to the brand’s founder with polka dots, smiley faces, and "graffito" details, referencing Moschino’s childhood chalk drawings. Appiolaza’s collection succeeded in blending fun and fashion, continuing the brand's legacy while adding a modern twist with a hint of humor.

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Emporio Armani S25

The day wrapped up with Emporio Armani, where Giorgio Armani drew on the timeless elegance of his empire to create a collection for the present. “It is the essence of what has gone before, but equally the statement of what is to come,” the show notes read. Armani's collection balanced masculinity and femininity, with suiting reminiscent of Annie Hall’s and silk riding breeches in bold reds and indigo shades, paired with intricately beaded trousers. The collection embodied both tradition and innovation.

Later that evening, an after-party celebrated the reopening of Emporio Armani's flagship store on Milan's Via Manzoni. Reflecting the theme of the collection, Armani emphasized the dialogue between the past and present: “My relationship with this city never stops evolving,” he said, marking another milestone in his brand’s rich history.

In Milan, the SS25 collections proved that fashion's evolution is always about striking a balance between honoring tradition and embracing the future.